(Image: Anbai)

Another Capitol Hill counter expert has helped Anbai’s start — Rie Otsuka, right, has lended some of her experience growing Sankaku Japanese Onigiri Cafe and Bar to Mukohata (Image: Anbai)

By Emily Riehl

The mix of small spaces for shops and restaurants inside the warrens of Capitol Hill’s Chophouse Row have provided homes for some of the neighborhood’s most interesting businesses.

One of those spaces is currently host to one of those ventures you — and your tummy — should check out.

Meanwhile, another food and drink project benefitting from Chophouse is ready to strike out for a new start away from the challenging and expensive environment of Seattle.

Tummy, meet Anbai, the latest resident of perhaps the most interesting space inside this 11th Ave collection of interesting spaces — the Chophouse Row counter.

“Focusing on improving your gut health through fermented delicious healthy food” is the guiding mantra of Anbai. Run nearly single-handedly by owner Fumiyo Mukohata, the eatery is just getting started, serving up a variety of bento boxes and nutrient-packed dishes designed to boost digestion, fight inflammation, and protect your gut from toxins.

About 20 years ago, Mukohata moved from Japan with expertise in the “the inner beauty diet” emphasizing fermented foods rich in probiotics that support digestion and gut health. After her daughter developed multiple allergies, Mukohata became deeply interested in how certain foods can benefit health, eventually discovering that traditional fermented Japanese foods like miso, and shoyu koji were particularly helpful.

“The gut and the brain are connected. If your gut is healthy, your mind is healthy,” says Mukohata.

After working as a server and helping out in the kitchen of a couple area Japanese restaurants, Mukohata went on to teach cooking classes for people struggling with digestive system issues. Not long after, Anbai was launched as a pop- up restaurant appearing at spots around Seattle such as La Dive, Saint Bread, and MIMI. After experiencing success with the limited events, Mukohata found a permanent home in Chophouse Row.

With a small, more affordable footprint, the Chophouse Row counter has been a launchpad for food and drink projects. Not all have taken off but some like handroll hustler By Tae grew enough to make the leap to larger projects. By Tae, by the way, didn’t last long beyond Chophouse but hopefully the food and drink world hasn’t seen the last of Sun Hong.

Anbai is also the work of a food artist. Many of Anbai’s dishes are inspired by Mukohata’s culture and personal life.

Anbai has a rice bowl with ume, a sour plum, and bonito with shoyu koji (tuna marinated in fermented soy sauce with rice) that reminds Mukohata of her grandmother. If you are trying out the restaurant for the first time, Mukohata recommends starting with a pork miso soup that reminds her of her hometown, Fukuoka, a city famous for their Tonkotsu ramen (ramen with pork). Additionally, there are a variety of bento boxes with white or enzyme brown rice options, as well as chicken curry, mushroom curry, onigiri, purple cabbage and more.

A typical day for Mukohata begins at 5 AM when she wakes up and commutes to a larger commissary kitchen equipped with more space and supplies. She spends the morning preparing food until 9 AM, then drives herself and the food to Anbai, where she works from 11 AM to 4 PM. Afterward, she returns to the commissary kitchen to prepare for the next day’s menu. Later, she picks up her daughter, heads home to make dinner for her family, and takes care of her dog. In the future, Mukohata looks forward to growing Anbai and hiring more help to manage the many tasks of the day.

The Chophouse community is also ready to lend a hand. Xóm ăn nhậu, the elevated Vietnamese restaurant next door to Anbai, generously allowed Mukohata to use their kitchen, saving her the drive to her other kitchen before opening Anbai each morning.

Anbai’s food and drink community around Chophouse is also readying to say goodbye to one of its young members now ready to set out on its own. Baka, a Japanese concept that has been popping up inside Chophouse Row wine bar Light Sleeper, is serving its final night this week after a half-year run. The Seattle Times reports that owner Christopher Ritter has chosen to grow Baka far from its expensive Seattle roots, setting out for Philadelphia with plans for buying a home and being closer to family.

Mukohata’s family is here in Seattle with hopes for more growth, more staff, and continuing her mix of flavors and health.

The Japanese word “anbai” that the restaurant’s name was inspired by, encompasses four distinct meanings: the balance of seasoning in a dish, the state of affairs, one’s health, and the skillful management of situations. Although anbai literally translates to “salt” and “plum” — referring to a type of plum vinegar called umezu — the term came to represent the ideal balance of flavors. This is because umezu and salt were key ingredients in Japanese seasonings, and even a slight change in their proportions could have a significant impact on the overall taste. Mukohata thought Anbai perfectly captures the restaurant’s mission of creating dishes with balanced, delicious flavors, while also supporting a balance in your overall health.

In the new year, Mukohata will be relaunching her cooking classes, where you can dive into the art of making traditional Japanese dishes like miso or shoyu koji. Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or a curious beginner, it’s the perfect chance to master the craft of traditional Japanese flavors firsthand and join the Anbai family.

Anbai is located inside Chophouse Row at 1424 11th Ave. Follow @anbai_seattle for more.

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